The mangosteen is my favorite fruit in the world—squat, with a
deep purplish-red rind, topped with four thick leaves and tiny stems
that look like clover-shaped hats. When you break into the thick rind,
you’re hit with a heady, sweet fragrance and eight or so fleshy white
pods of fruit that resemble cloves of garlic. Mangosteens are soft and
creamy, lemony and tart, with a meaty earthiness—at least that’s
how I remember them. My first encounter with my beloved mangosteen was
at a night market in Hong Kong in 2000; I’ve had them only once since
then, in Vancouver. (They’ve been banned for import into the U.S.
because of fruit-fly fears).
My memories of mangosteens are inextricable from those of the
wondrous Hong Kong night market, where the sounds of people bargaining
in Chinese, the smell of deep-fried fish balls, and the sight of
twinkling lights, knockoff Sanrio products, and jade bracelets
commingled to fight off darkness. Every city should have a night
market. Though it hasn’t taken place yet, I am already deeply in love
with Seattle’s Chinatown—International District Night
Market, which takes place Saturday, August 4, in Hing Hay
Park, the park with the lovely red-pillared pavilion. It may be a naive
fantasy, but I’m going to go in search of mangosteens. I believe I will
find them.
Chinatown—ID Night Market is Sat Aug 4 at Hing Hay Park,
423 Maynard Ave S, 382-1197, www.cidbia.org, 6—11 pm.
