In the United States, Cinco de Mayo has become a popular
holiday ostensibly celebrating Mexican culture and the experiences of
Americans with Mexican ancestry. It is now the holiday on which
Americans consume the second highest amount of beer in a single day
(the first being St. Patrick’s Day). That Cinco de Mayo has grown into
such a distinctly American, beer-soaked day is particularly interesting
since it isn’t widely celebrated in Mexico. Many people mistakenly
believe that Cinco de Mayo is Mexican Independence Day (that’s actually
September 16), when, in reality, it marks a Mexican victory at the
Battle of Puebla, when a highly outnumbered Mexican army defeated
French occupying forces. Outside of Puebla, where there are colorful
parades and mock battles, Cinco de Mayo in Mexico is a pretty low-key
affair.

A lovely, low-key affair is what I had last Monday night at newly
opened the Saint, which, according to the menu, promises
“Tequila Salvation.” More than tequila (of which there is
plenty—over 80 different bottles of blanco, reposado, and
añejo), the Saint offers warmth (white lights and walls, wood, a
tiny, cozy bar) and an earnest, if highly polished, appreciation for
the flavors and traditions of Mexico. I’ve yet to try anything beyond
chips and salsa (all house-made), but the menu—a small, focused
selection of dishes that take time to prepare—looks promising.
Rather than chugging Corona with the masses, a quiet night at the bar
at the Saint, sipping your way through potent tequila (I recommend
starting with the Flight of Tequila, a rotating selection of three
one-ounce pours for $21) is the more sensible way to get wasted and say
viva Mexico.

The Saint, 1416 E Olive Way, 323-9922.

Angela Garbes began her food writing career as a freelancer for The Stranger in 2006, joined the staff in 2014, and is now freelancing once again amid writing books; Like a Mother: A Feminist Journey Through...