Awesome. Credit: Photos by Kelly O

You could eat your way around the world in downtown

Ballardโ€”within less than a mile radius, there’s everything
from Puerto Rican (La Isla) to Minnesotan (Zayda Buddy’s), Vietnamese
(the Monkey Bridge) to Norwegian (Olsen’s Scandinavian Foods). Ballard
even has a little cafe that specializes in toast (Nervous
Nellie’s).

But for years, Ballard’s culinary offerings
have had one
glaring omission: Mediterranean food. Until about a month ago, if you
wanted a gyro or spanakopita within walking distance, the best you
could do was head way up 15th Avenue Northwest to Taki’s Mad Greek (a
zany little Mediterranean cafe with live music and huge helpings, worth
the trek for the messy falafel sandwich alone).

But Ballard has finally gotten its Greek on: Plaka Estiatorio opened
up about a month ago in a small shop across from the High Life on 20th
Avenue Northwest. It’s a cozy, cute room, despite faux exposed brick
(sigh). Like most Ballard restaurants at dinnertime, it’s bustling with
older couples, young families, and the occasional sinรฅgle diner.
Plaka’s menu is concise but accommodating: With over 15 small plates
(most between $5 and $7), an array of dips, a few salads, and about a
dozen entrรฉes, there’s a taste of just about everything you
could ever ask for.

Our meal started with a large plate of soft, warm pita and three
dips ($8). The skordalia (crushed garlic and potatoes) was the
first to get gobbled upโ€”the pungent taste of garlic infused the
creamy potatoes neither overwhelmingly nor too gently, just the way it
should be. The melitzanosalata (roasted eggplant, tomatoes, and
onions) was an appropriate, mild complement, with the caramelized
onions’ natural sugars sweetening each bite. The
roasted-red-peppers-and-feta dip was runnier than I’d have liked,
spreading out across the plate like something predigested, but despite
the unpleasant aesthetic, it was still a classic, tasty
combination.

Across the table, on the meat-eaters’ side, the gyro meritha ($6)โ€”a combination of lamb and veal with roasted tomatoes and
tzatzikiโ€”shimmered in a shallow pool of oil. According to
my carnivorous taste-testers, it was greasy, but in a glorious way.
“It’s like lamb bacon,” laughed one, while the other silently ravaged
the plate. It smelled rich and caramely and smoky, and as they pinched
pieces of glistening meat between wedges of warm pita, I
consideredโ€”just for a heartbeatโ€”abandoning 15-plus years of
vegetarianism to taste it. Fortunately (or alas?), three tender
medallions of spanakopita ($7) kept my attention.

The only thing on the table that failed to impress was the
horiatiki salad: a big bowl of tomatoes, English cucumbers,
green peppers, red onions, capers, and feta in a lemon vinaigrette.
There wasn’t enough acid in the dressing, so the veggies were drowning
in oil and begging for seasoning. A sprinkling of sea salt and fresh
black pepper helped, but it could’ve benefited mightily from another
squeeze of lemon juice.

While I nibbled at the lackluster salad, all I could think of was
the dressing I’d had just the night before at Gorgeous George’s in
Greenwood. Ah, Greenwood. While it’s exciting that Ballard finally has
a horse in the race (and a delicious one at that), Greenwood definitely
had a head start: There’s Mediterranean cuisine on every block. And the
clear winner is Gorgeous George’s.

Chef George is a tall man with a huge smile who walks around the
tiny dining room greeting new customers and talking to regulars. While
we waited for our hummus-with-meat and falafel appetizers ($7.95 and
$6.95), he brought us a plate of pita with a cloud of hummus (which was
fighting to contain a flood of extra-virgin olive oil) and an enormous
salad. (He brought pita, hummus, and salad to every table, on the
house. I don’t know if he does this all the time, but: awesome.) Poured
across the giant bowl of crisp romaine, tomatoes, and cucumbers was the
dressing of my dreamsโ€”the sweetest, tastiest basil vinaigrette
I’ve ever had. The hummus was smooth and flawless, and the pita was
soft yet not at all gummy, with the thinnest layer of crispy crust. But
that dressing was all I could think about.

George’s falafel was light, with a thin, browned outside that
crunched easily, giving way to a tender center. And the chunks of lamb,
while not as beautiful as Plaka’s, still looked
invitingโ€”marinated then pan-roasted to a deep brown.

While Greenwood may be ahead, Ballard is finally
representingโ€”and hopefully the success of Plaka Estiatorio will
inspire another Mediterranean spot (or two!) to move into the
neighborhood. Maybe George is looking to expand?recommended

Megan Seling is The Stranger's managing editor. She mostly writes about hockey, snacks, and music. And sometimes her dog, Johnny Waffles.

11 replies on “Mediterranean Love”

  1. The food at Gorgeous George’s was the absolute, hands down, *BEST* Mediterranean I’ve tasted since I moved here from Detroit. In Detroit, specifically Dearborn, they get falafel RIGHT. George also made me a fattoush salad. I hadn’t had one in 12 years. So good I almost cried…

  2. Too bad George himself is an ass. You’ll figure that out around the 3rd or 4th visit. Just ask the neighbors.

  3. The assertion that George is an ass is fairly baseless. I’ve eat at his restaurant many times and he is a very charming and jovial man. Not only does he take care of his customers, he does so graciously, often giving people free dishes. I’ve never seen him be anything but pleasant to everyone around. Maybe you’re the ass “George’s Neighbor”?

  4. The assertion that George is an ass is fairly baseless. I’ve eat at his restaurant many times and he is a very charming and jovial man. Not only does he take care of his customers, he does so graciously, often giving people free dishes. I’ve never seen him be anything but pleasant to everyone around. Maybe you’re the ass “George’s Neighbor”?

  5. Gorgeous George’s is great, and George himself is a wonderful person and gracious host. How often do you see this type of personal touch. Everytime we go in there, he makes a big fuss!

  6. I’ve known George for years, from his previous restaurant and now as host and chef at Gorgeous George’s. He’s always been a gentleman and a generous host. He’s one of the best chefs in the city. (and yes, he’s forever offering free appetizers and/or desserts)

    The pointless and tasteless ad hominem attack which has nothing to do with the food or the place is disappointing. How the HELL would I know what his neighbors think? You got issues? Take them up in the appropriate venue.

    We’ve taken friends to GG’s and will continue to do so. It’s the best baba ganoush around and i’ve eaten plenty. We spent a major important anniversary at GGs, even though we have Big Deal Fave restaurants downtown. I had a beautifully prepared grilled shrimp dish that could not have been better. (and was careful not to mention the anniversary as we figured he’d give us too many freebies!) The food NEVER disappoints.

    I hope he expands, but right now, let’s just hope that he survives hard financial times and rude neighbors. Hmmm, time to drop by for dinner?

  7. I’ll second the ass.

    Was recently in with my wife, ordered lamb swarma & lamb chop, both were very tough and gristlely (if that’s a word). This was compounded by bad service – no knife, no check back, just a plate of tough lamb and no sharp implement. After losing the lamb battle armed with a butter knife & no GoGeo in sight, I walked into the kitchen and requested a knife. Instead of acknowleding his tough lamb and implement dearth, he rudely resented my “tresspass”.

    Check out KOUZINA up on Greenwood & 84th – it’s great, but keeps erratic hours Thursday – Satuday, but they often close for catering jobs.

    Call first 206 448-8555

    Despite the intermittant “Gorgeous” presence, it really wasn’t pretty.

  8. George is so not an ass maybe your the ass around here your probably just jealous of him and if you don’t like his food,man you have issues his food is the best you’ll ever try but probably you don’t know about good food because from the looks
    of things you just spend your time writting shit about people.George is one of the most thoughfull people I know he’s very kind and has a big heart(soooo unlike you) and maybe you should get your self a life so you can stay away from georges life!!!

  9. I believe I was in the resturant the night “marcs” had his issues. Funny enough I thought something was odd with him. while my wife and I were eating dinner, “marcs” and his wife seemed to be stressed or not at ease, which is why they caught my eye. You don’t walk into the kitchen of a working resturant, at least that seems out of bounds to me. That alone rings the warning bell about you. We had a great meal, no problems with the service. I’ve been back since and can report the same experience. I have not found a better Mediterranean resturant in Seattle.

  10. I stopped by George’s recently after hearing rave reviews from a friend. Food was fantastic and George was hilarious. I can see how some people might not “get” him, but if your a normal human with normal expectations you will probably find George fun. Regardless of what you think of the chef, you can’t argue with the food. Definitely will be on my regular resturant rotation!

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