This Lao/Thai restaurant has the goods. Their crispy fish in chili is a whole fish smothered in a tangy caramelized garlic sauce. Choose some tasty pieces and put them on your sticky rice—it’s out of this world. The green papaya salad is basically as spicy as you can take it, yet still refreshing in its citrusy crunchiness. The grilled beef salad comes with a plate of greens and herbs: Roll up the meat in a piece of lettuce and add mint and onion for a delicious fresh roll. The ambience of this place is old-school, the food isn’t blanded down, and it’s cash only. (Viengthong, 2820 Martin Luther King Jr. Way S, 725-3884, 11 am–8 pm)