Let’s start with what Oddfellows is doing right. The space—a
giant, high-ceilinged room in Odd Fellows Hall on Capitol Hill—is
great. Linda Derschang (Linda’s, King’s Hardware, the Rob Roy, Smith)
has done a pretty much perfect vintage-salvage interior: scarred wooden
floors, exposed brick wall, jars of pickled things on shelves, stern
photos of old-timey people (including the building’s founding fraternal
order). There is an American flag so awesomely antique, it might as
well be the one that inspired Francis Scott Key; there is a chalkboard
that raises and lowers by an ingeniously simple mechanism. The room has
great bones—the beams alone inspire joy—and so much
airspace that spirits are automatically lifted.

Derschang and her partner,
Ericka Burke of the Volunteer Park
Cafe, modeled Oddfellows on nearby Cafe Presse: a place to meet, hang
out, and eat and drink at reasonable prices both day and night. Seating
includes long tables with benches, pews with tables for two (the other
seat being adorably old-timey but rather hard on the spine), swivel
stools at the counter. During the day, light floods in from the wall of
windows, service is order-at-the-register, and the whole neighborhood
is here. You might see the guy from Bailey/Coy Books reading, Pike
Street Fish Fry’s Michael Hebb having a meeting, or The
Stranger‘s publisher drinking coffee (the office is a block away).
It’s loud and happy, like an ideal dining hall; it begs for a food
fight. At night, it’s still loud and still happy, and it’s the right
place for pretty much everyone. One evening recently, a group with many
tattoos drank cans of Schlitz, a girls’ night out had champagne
cocktails, and a couple on a date prayed before eating, all within a
few tables of each other.

Given all this greatness (plus the proximity to the office), I want
very much to love Oddfellows without qualms. The unfortunate thing is,
I can’t find anything that’s great to eat there. It’s not for want of
trying: I’ve had more than two-thirds of what’s on the menu over the
two and a half months since it opened. Some things have been fine: The
rotisserie chicken ($15) had peppery-crisp skin and moist meat, with
unobjectionable mashed potatoes and simple sautéed greens. It
was good. Also good, and slightly more exciting: crispy pork nuggets
($6).
You expect pieces of meat à la chicken nuggets, but
the texture is meatbally—it’s pulled pork, lightly breaded and
deep-fried. With a sweet-spicy dipping sauce, it’s a tasty snack.
Sandwiches are served at lunch and at night, and three out of four I’ve
tried were completely adequate (not counting a panini special, which
had stringy prosciutto and too much goat cheese). The Oddfellow was
grilled and salty and Reuben-ish with its rye bread, salami, coppa,
Gruyère, and pickled red onion ($8). A basic barbecue pulled
pork sandwich: portion on the small side, sauce on the sweet side ($8).
The French dip ($8) featured tender meat and an oddly thick jus. In the
most-improved category: mac and cheese ($6), on the dry/bland side in
its initial incarnation, now a nice little dish of campanelle (cute bell-shaped pasta with ruffled edges) with a creamy,
smoky-
flavored sauce. These dishes are all entirely

acceptable, but not especially compelling; I want something
(ideally, plural somethings) that I’ll think about later and go back
specifically for.

The dishes that I’ve tried that are not so good are indicative of a
kitchen that can’t handle the basics or (more charitably, though it
doesn’t help the diner much) is wildly inconsistent. Simple
vinaigrettes have been so oily, they coat your lips with a sheen; one
dressing, on the “simple green salad” ($6), was so salty as to be
inedible. When I had the chicken panzanella salad ($9), the proportions
were crazy: barely any chicken and way too much bacon. Too much bacon!
Who knew it was possible? Bacon was left behind. An order of
fries ($6) was thick and mealy, their special sauce too sweet. Beef
stew ($12) was on the salty side, without depth or nuance, the meat
less than tender. A gigantic, gorgeous braised pork shank ($14) had
little flavor at all, and its lentils were al dente. In the shepherd’s
pie ($10), the little bits of carrot and celery and onion were also
undercooked, kind of comically crunchy—and the ground beef seemed
unspiced. The chicken salad in a sandwich ($7) was unbelievably
mayonnaisey, even for a fan of mayonnaise.

Unhappily, I could go on, but you get the idea: cooking that’s often
out of balance and occasionally completely off the rails. Oddfellows’
menu isn’t rocket science, and it’s the same kind of contemporary
comfort food that’s earned Burke praise at the Volunteer Park Cafe. She
and Derschang have the right place and the right idea; now they just
have to get what’s on the plates right. recommended

68 replies on “What’s Odd About Oddfellows”

  1. The bread they use for the chicken salad sandwich is impossible to eat. No amount of mayonnaise can soften it up enough. I keep trying to eat there but the menu is severely limited and when I have tried something it’s just been ok, nothing that makes me want to go back. The space is great though. Hopefully they’ll expand their menu (offer more sandwiches and soups) or change some recipes. Please get rid of the baguette you serve the Chix Salad sandwich on though, that thing is impossible to eat.

  2. Sadly, I agree 100%. It’s a gorgeous space, a fantastic atmosphere and good place to drink… but I’ve tried a variety of menu items and everything has been subpar. I couldn’t even swallow the pork nuggets… and that special sauce is special in a bad way.

    Oddfellows, I want to love you!!!!!

  3. Maybe they have too many other projects around seattle. There is always something to be said for an actual independent dining experience.

  4. Unfortunately, I agree with Bethany’s review. I have worked very hard to create a wonderful neighborhood cafe. We’ve hit it right with the interior, I think. We also have a great group of people working at Oddfellows. But the food is not there. My goal is to make changes and improvements on the food every day. I appreciate all the feedback. Bear with us.

  5. you nailed it. and much chatter from my food nerd friends is almost an exact echo of what was written here. the good food remains only good however the not-so-good food is difficult (sandwiches, frites) at best and not exciting at all. AND i too want to LOVE the oddfellow’s as the space is beautiful along with welcome vibe that shines!

    big ups to linda d. for her comment as that just shows some serious professionalism and class. thanks.

  6. This article is right on. I have left similar comments with the staff. The first time, the dressing on my spinach salad was super oily. later, my girlfriend’s sandwich was half cold. the sauce with the fries needs serious help. basic flavor creation help.
    i love the feel of the place though and will give it time to get the basics right. i’m sure the hipsters behind the counter are nice, i’m just not sure they are cooks.

  8. It’s awesome that Linda is willing to make necessary changes with the food because SO MUCH about Oddfellows is SO RIGHT. Never more apparent than when the wait staff actually makes an effort to make sure the customer is happy with their meal or experience. Nothing wrong with that, and the good news is the food is only bound to get better. Despite all this critique, the food is good, their just needs to be something to make it a destination.

  10. That used to be my classroom when it was Freehold. It was hard to loose that space in such a great building from a student’s point of view. I don’t represent the school.
    I am curious to see how that space would work as a restaurant.

  11. I, too, thought it was nice that Ms. Derschang bothered to comment here. When I pointed this out to my partner, her response was, “Huh. So has she fired this horrible cook yet? Changed the menu? Sounds like we better wait while before trying it.”

    Good points.

  13. …or awhile. Whatever. Slog, can we please have logins and the ability to edit our comments for a minute or so after they’re posted? TIA

  14. What are the odds that Bethany will here a rumour that I wantonly painted her image on my interior wall where anyone with a satellite could have mainpulated the reverse image and likeness in spite?

    \Perhaps she should come over on thw 21st also and have a little laugh as well.

  15. The food is in-FUCKING-edible. And given how FILTHY the staff is, I wouldn’t eat it anyway. It’s crap serverd by crap.

  16. Unfortunately, I must chime in with a “me too” and thank BJC for the tough love. I’ll also offer that I have every confidence Oddfellows will iron out the kinks and bring the food in-line with everyone’s high expectations. Why? Because the other restaurants in the family (esp. Linda’s and Smith) hit their stride with the menu. Oddfellows will too.

    I keep checking in and fully expect to be as delighted with the food as I am with the awesome group of folks who work and eat there.

  17. I agree with this review too. I also took acting classes in the space, and it’s fun to go back and experience it as a community meeting place. True, the food isn’t there yet. I do want to give a shout-out to the staff who are all sweet as pie.

    I’ll keep going back, even with so-so sandwiches.

  18. i just want to chime in with the chorus that is chanting “you nailed it,” which you did. you also nailed it with obvious love, for which you get seven bonus points.

    and linda, i thought your response was great and graceful, and the knowledge that you’re really on the case will bring me back to try again.

  19. Bethany’s descriptions of the good dishes make me ravenous. I want to try the place despite the bad overall review. And huge praise for Linda Derschang for taking criticism with class.

  20. What is noble about acknowledging that you are charging people and arm and leg for food that sucks??? I am confused. I have yet to hear one good thing about the food here…the ultimate proof of which was just offered in a feature article in the Stranger, for chrissake. Are prices dropping at all? Revisions in the menu? In this economy, no thanks….

  21. nothanks: actually, the food is remarkably well-priced. When I was there I had the grilled cheese sandwich, which was filled with excellent non-American cheeses, for $6 including accompanying greens.

    (My grilled cheese was quite, quite tasty, although I did have to request it be heated a bit more on the panini grill, which I guess proves the points made in this article.)

  23. Agreed. Linda’s comment shows some class. I’ll have to visit Oddfellows, maybe just for drinks for now, but I’ll definitely bear with them.

  24. First Linda is not the Chef. Ericka Burke is. Why would you bear with a restaurant that is not cutting it in the first place. Were it not a Derschang joint would you still cut it this level of slack? In fact to BJC, when did it become common place for critics to right positive reviews about mediocre establishments? Is this because the Editor now gets coffee there, where as last summer it was Presse? I don’t always like the Times or the PI, but at least they are willing to call a spade a spade from time to time. Sadly the Stranger operates the same for all phases of critique save movies, you write middling to glowing reviews of everything in order not to offend anyone or for you (the critic) to be well liked within the confines of the idea, concept, or “scene,” that you critique. The exception being the anonymity of movies and books who’s faceless distant creators are fair game for mocking or at least fair observation, and oddly the theatre reviews.

    It’d be nice if for once the Stranger just came out and said, “hey, sorry your band sucks. Your art show is pretty irrelevant, and you know what your restaurant concept/execution is frankly banal with it’s chicken salads, and throwback sandwiches and even then you can’t really seem to get those right.”

  27. I too want to love Oddfellows, and I keep going back for that great experience. But so far it just hasn’t happened. I’d also like to add that the service paradigm needs some polishing. For example, no where on the menu does it say what time of day items are available. You wait in line and then order only to find out that the thing you want isn’t available at that hour. So, you make everybody else wait longer while you decide again. And when you order at the counter, it’s not clear whether you need to get your own utensils and water. I’ve asked and the staff have replied differently. One time when I asked if we should get our own water or would they bring it, the waiter said, “If you want.” Then I pointed out that I saw glasses but I didn’t see pitchers of water or a spigot. The waiter seemed surprised and said a pitcher was supposed to be set out. It’s that kind of thing each time I’ve been there — vague directions, things not available at that hour that are on the menu on the board or on the paper menu in front of you. I love the casual atmosphere and the old-timey style of the menu. If you can make it clear what people are supposed to do and then make sure people can do it, it’ll help customers know what to expect and improve the sense of service, even when during self-serve hours.

  28. Has it occurred to some of you that there are places that, as we speak, serve really TASTY food? No wishing, no try-and-try again, no 5th chances, but consistently well-executed food. Are we so “me too” that everybody just keeps eating this allegedly bad food because they want to love the place. I don’t get it.

  29. Wow, seriously.

    Linda is going to comment on a public forum and diss the food that her BUSINESS PARTNER is obviously accredited with without so much as a diplomatic tone, eg.: “I have worked very hard to create a wonderful neighborhood cafe…”, “We’ve hit it right with the interior…”, “We also have a great group of people working…”

    Nothing there indicates that she isn’t shoving Ericka under the bus.

    If it really was just a problem with the food, don’t you think there would be some backlash at VPC? Perhaps Linda’s ego and overall lack of objectivity is where to look.

    There’s a lack of sensitivity and probably an error in judgement by pairing with someone she thought could help her succeed combined with a sense of entitlement that we can all taste in the food. It’s opportunistic on both of their parts and its backfiring without any clear definition except for the concise criticism that Bethany is going for.

    You can’t manufacture the passion it takes to create good food, especially what Burke does. “Home cooking” sounds nice but is very subjective. Linda’s prices, image and monopoly are direct negators of the concept.

    This is a small town and people expect things handed to them on a platter on one hand, but on the other, they are sick and tired of being taken by gimmicks. Linda can’t have it both ways.

    I’m not necessarily defending Burke either but this place has been open, what… 4 months!?!? Who cares? It takes most serious businesses decades to establish a location. What the hell is wrong with Seattle that we think we deserve instant gratification for every appropriated venue, whether it’s an historic, beautifully renovated spot or a tragic ground floor condo squat with a famous name attached?

    My opinion, and its just that, Linda needs a hobby and that means not commenting off the cuff on a blog, or replying to Yelpers in a nasty tone.

    “My goal is to make changes and improvements on the food every day. I appreciate all the feedback. Bear with us.” Well, you could start by understanding what it takes to put your heart and soul into the food or at least put your heart and soul into having faith in the people you chose to go into business with.

    Umm learn how to cook? Learn how to cook for a hundred? Maybe wait tables a few days a week? Regain some humility? Maybe open a business anonymously next time so you don’t have so many slackers trying to ride your coattails? Just a thought. Oh yeah, and welcome to the internet.

  30. I don’t know what all this negative fuss is about the poor quality of food at Odd Fellows. I was just there the other night and I had the Fillet and it was like butter melting on my tongue! It was sooo succulent! Even more succulent than you could imagine. And at the price point of a measly $10!

    You can bet, I’ll be back. I’m getting the fish tacos next time!

  32. It is what makes easting in NY and Chicago great, and Seattle… blah.

    Good simple food, at decent prices.

    Give people a base menu of simple preparations, correctly done, at a decent price.

    Diners don’t want to be educated with every course.

    Diners also probably don’t want “Your Special Version” of like Mac & Cheese or Meatloaf.

  33. Dear Linda,

    And please give us a little more bang for our buck. Many of your sandwiches and entrees need a little side to even up the flavors and create a sense of fullness…a little scoop of coleslaw or potato salad or a green veggie or a piece of bread. It doesn’t have to be a LARGE serving but just enough to satisfy the palate and soothe our guilty conscience that we don’t eat enough veg or grain. (The same is true for Smith as well). Add a scoop of cole slaw and a piece of corn bread to a barbecued meat or some asparagus spears to that steak, (a friend of mine paid $15.95 for the steak at Oddfellows and was a little chagrined to get a tiny, tiny piece of ok meat and a small onion blossom on a large plate…all you need to do is add a yam and a piece of bread and it would have been great!)

    Note: I am not a “big” eater and I’m usually appalled by the enormous servings at the big chains…I’m not saying you need to go that route, just punch up the plate a little…

  34. I frequent Oddfellows quite often and cannot agree more with Bethany’s article and the wish that the food was better. As a good friend of Linda’s I want nothing more for her to succeed and will keep coming back – though reluctant to eat. Though two points should be reiterated.

    1. Linda has nailed the space. I cannot think of a better communal space in Seattle to congregate with friends or just work quietly by oneself. Executing space that conveys great ambiance/feeling is the more difficult of the two tasks (space and food). Simply put, Oddfellows space is transcendental. And this will go a long way to getting people to come in.

    2. Its true the front of house staff is stellar. They are professional, intuitive, pleasant and even with sub par food are willing to go the distance to make people feel very well taken care of. On numerous occasions they have accommodated for the dissatisfaction with the food and do so in an unassuming, ‘we get it’ manner.

    So in a sense, Oddfellows is 2/3 the way to being a hit. The problems with the food are part conceptual, part execution and just almost no attention to detail. But these things can be fixed and with Linda’s commitment which is attested by the comment above, I’m sure in time things will be different.

  36. The space is great, and the staff seems extremely competent and friendly, especially compared to linda’s or smith…but the food is not great. I’ve probably gone there about fifteen times for breakfast, lunch AND dinner, and honestly, it is never great.
    The onion sandwich is pretty good, but not as good as the same sandwich on the menu at smith…go figure. The portions are measly.
    I haven’t given up yet, linda, but I may avoid spending thirty more dollars on enough food at oddfellows to fill me up until I hear good things…from the stranger, or from you, or from anyone…

  37. I had the grilled cheese with onion jam again last night and it was again quite yummy and still very reasonable at $6. So, uh, anyone who REALLY wants to go to support the space and whatnot should eat that damn sandwich.

  38. I just ate at Odd Fellows last night. For what they charge, I’ve got no issues with it. The Chicken Lapanzanella Salad did seem perhaps a bit heavy on the bacon (I’d love to see how it was with pulled pork and chicken instead of the bacon), but I still ate the whole thing without complaint.

    I also had those pork nugget things, so I had to filter my thoughts on the bacon in the salad through the reality that I had already had a pork product, so maybe I was overporked.

    In any case, I don’t think that recipe is inherently bad. Maybe just needs a little tweaking.

    I also had a gnocchi special at Odd Fellows another time that I thought was really good and a great value at like $11.

    The other people in my party last night didn’t seem to have a problem with the food either. The mac and cheese was good. So were the greens. The french dip sandwich that the guy at the next table was eating looked good (I almost ordered that). The plate of meat and cheese he and his wife were sharing looked good too.

    All this is just to say that I think they will get it dialed in. VPGC didn’t have every kink worked out in the first month or two either. I know this, because I live a few blocks from there and so pretty much have been going there since day 1.

    Odd Fellows is a very high profile place. It didn’t have much of a soft opening. And it seems like it’s been getting slammed since pretty much the first day. It’s also open pretty much every waking hour of the day and night. So there’s not a lot of down time to step back and dial things in.

    It’s kind of the VPGC on steroids with a bar.

    To be honest, Odd Fellows is my favorite place Linda has ever opened. I also like that everything is kind of $1 less than you expect it to be and the portion is bigger than you expect, as opposed to so many places where the portions are both small and overpriced.

    I applaud Linda for her candor. It’s useful to have the owner of a place acknowledge that more work needs to be done. I trust it will be done.

    I don’t think there’s any need to think that she is somehow throwing Erika under the bus. The menu itself is not the problem. If there is a problem, it’s in the execution. Ultimately, that’s a team problem, not purely the fault of Erika, even if she is nominally in charge of the kitchen.

    All of my friends and I agreed last night that Odd Fellows is like a Portland restaurant. And at least right now, that is pretty much the highest compliment I can give.

    If you don’t know what I mean by that, spend some time in Portland and you’ll see what I mean.

    It also has the perfect mix of attributes for these tough economic times: Comfortable, reasonable, but also kind of cool.

    I’m willing to give them some slack in getting them all dialed in. Because the truth is that all my experiences eating there have been very pleasant and positive. Maybe I’d feel differently if the sandwiches were all $12 instead of $6-$10. But for that price and in that wonderful space, I’m good with it.

    Moreover, if you’re afraid to spend $8 on a sandwich and try this place based on something Bethany Jean Clement said, well, you have more faith in her judgment than I do. She seems to like Cafe Presse, which I’ve always found to be kind of a pretentious, small-portioned, overpriced, disappointment. I just don’t feel comfortable in that place at all. So after a couple of visits I just gave up on it.

    Different strokes for different folks I guess.

  39. I might be one of the few capital hill-ites who isn’t enamoured w/ volunteer park cafe. If it wasn’t in that super cute space the place would only get 1/2 the love. I’ve had many poorly excuted, somewhat tasteless meals there. I want it to be better, it just isn’t, I do keep trying though. Oddfellows is exactly the same for me. I want it to be good so badly. It isn’t, it might not ever be and maybe that’s OK.
    As far as the space at Oddfellows goes, i wish it had a bit less ye olde going on and maybe a touch of design. Linda has a great eye but it’s abundantly clear from all of her interiors that she could use a bit of contemporary design to give her places a lift. I’m not talking about looking like Vessel or Veil .. maybe one rubber chair or one glossy bright colored something that is new.
    Props to her for believing in Seattle and opening new places .. but maybe hire a bit of local talent to help with the interiors a touch

  40. I think this review nails it. The space is amazing and I have faith that they will work it out with the food. It took a little while for Smith to hit its stride, but now it consistently serves some of the best food around. Oddfellows will get there.

    One additional comment: Linda, please do away with the awkward counter service during the day. It takes a long time to order, it’s difficult to look over he menu, and it makes it harder to have a nice breakfast or lunch with friends. The counter service is the exact reason I quit going to VPC for breakfast or lunch.

  41. To the commentors above who seem to think we shouldn’t give them time or more chances to work it out: I would give any new/newer place a chance to work the kinks out.

    I will particularly give Linda time to do it. She continues to invest in Capitol Hill, opening interesting and comfortable places that become assets to the neighborhood they are in. Oddfellows is already a great addition to the neighborhood and with a little time will be absolutely amazing.

  42. I really do love Oddfellows, but this review is sadly accurate. The space is amazing, the staff is very attentive and friendly, but the food is lackluster and there aren’t enough options. As a vegetarian, my choices are severely limited. But I hope to see it turn around soon and I still love it for coffee or drinks.

  43. Sounds like an awfully meaty menu. I can make excellent mac n cheese at home. If I eat out, I want to eat food that I can’t make at home, or better than what I make. That leaves me eating a lot of Thai, Ethiopian, and Indian food, and avoiding classic “American” fare. I just thought I’d add my 2 cents because I think it’s super swell that Linda D. is reading the comments!

  44. If I was linda’s business partners I’d be a little miffed that she would comment on a blog and place blame on everyone but herself.

  45. I LOVE the pulled pork sandwich! I would be sad if it changed. The staff is really great and I like ordering first, everything goes faster than waiting for table service.

  46. The pork nuggets alone are cause for celebration. The sauce was slightly too acidic on the occasion i tried it, but no complaints. i dunno, i come from a food mecca city, and i was pleased. the Shepperd’s pie was obviously assisted with demi-glace, much to the appreciation of our table. the server was informed, charming and honest.

    i would say it is well worth the trip. beggars cant’ be choosers.

  47. This owner should get major props for hearing, listening and taking ownership of the problem. I love the space. “[T]he food is not there. My goal is to make changes and improvements on the food every day. I appreciate all the feedback. Bear with us.”
    Yes, we will!

  48. I think Linda understands and Ericka may need to a little more, that the people make the place. It’s usually the case the that folks at the top could be a little more self effacing and let the staff, food and space do the talking.

    When I visit VPC most every morning and Smith once in a while it’s the people behind the counter who provide excellent service that keep me coming back. Most of the time I’m coming in for a great coffee and pastry and could care less about the rest of the food

    With the economy in the shape it’s in Linda and Ericka should be thanking their staff with a well deserved pay raise for the good ones and a hearty farewell to the bad ones. No crocodile tears no BS. Like I said before it’s the people that keep me coming back!!

  49. Taste the sauces before they go to the guest. Follow up with the prep cooks when the sauces are not correct. Replace the cooks who won’t take direction. Leadership!! You go girl.

    Some of these kitchens don’t even use the recipes when prepping or label the sauces (who prepped what ie. no follow up). Maybe that sounds too corporate for the cool kids but yields inconsistent food. Hello?

  50. It is clear that there are three categories of people posting comments here.
    1) People who do not know Linda, have never worked for Linda (or known anyone who has…), and have never entered in to a business partnership with Linda. (See: all positive comments.)
    2)People who HAVE worked for Linda, or known someone who has. (See: sharp criticisms.)
    3)People who currently work for Linda. (See: direct raves and recommendations, i.e. “I’ll be back for fish tacos!!!!”.

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