Bar Exam

The $26 burger is no more at the Triangle Lounge, and its creator,
Tom Hurley, is no longer involved with the Fremont bar and restaurant.
At the Triangle last week, a server showed little remorse about the
tandem departure of Hurley and the burger. Some choice words were
deployed about the former, who was apparently not a big hit with the
staff; as for the latter, the relief at no longer having to hear “a
TWENTY-SIX DOLLAR burger?!” was evident. In the burger’s defense, it
was meant for two and came with two beers.

Hurley first gained fame for his name-sake French restaurant in
Portland, which shut down at the beginning of this year. In an
interview with the Oregonian, he blamed the closure on lingering
effects of a 2004 protest against foie gras staged at Hurley’s.
Hurley opened Coupage in Madrona in the fall of 2006; the signature
menu item there was a pricey foie-gras burger, which met with lavish
praise instead of protests. After a number of staff changes (including
the departure of the acclaimed opening chefs, who went on to open
Wallingford’s Joule), Coupage shut down in August. A year ago, it was
reported that Hurley purchased the Triangle, but it seems that the
not-so-clear-cut relationship has ended. (Hurley did not return
a call for comment.)

The burger at the Triangle now feeds only one person, as a burger is
meant to do. It costs $10, with cheese and bacon included, and
it tastes completely fine. A sandwich known as The Philly suffers from
a lopsided bread-to-meat ratio, its big, squishy roll providing the
main flavor. With both: shoestring potatoes that are remarkably similar
to the canned variety (and enjoyable depending on one’s stance on
those). In other Triangle meats: bacon-wrapped meat loaf, described by
the menu as “awesome,” and while not inspiring awe, meriting credit for
its greasy, basic goodness. Its presentation is by far the most haute:
a vertical stack of mashed potatoes and meat loaf with a frizzy wig of
fried onions on top, all flanked by a parenthetical set of
peas.

Weekend nights, the Triangle is known for the spaghetti-strap and
ball-cap crowd (which may also be enjoyable depending on one’s stance
on those). Before they arrive, it’s entirely pleasant and relaxed, just
a regular bar with a big, comforting red neon “PRESCRIPTIONS” sign
above the liquor bottles. Also noteworthy: the waitperson, both for
candor on the Hurley/burger topic and for timeliness, politeness, and
unannoying good cheer. The barkeep, too, was more than necessarily
pleasant, showing a high tolerance for stupid questions like: Is
the cherry bomb—a shot of vodka dropped in a pint of Red Bull,
$7—always the special? “Well, it is right now.” Is it good?
“Yeah, it’s good, if you like bomb drinks.” Well played, sir.

bethany@thestranger.com