This years Tribal Canoe Journey landed here, at Quinault.

  • PHOTO BY MATIKA WILBUR
  • This year’s Tribal Canoe Journey landed here, at Quinault.

“Seattle—I always say it’s the epicenter of the Indian movement right now,” says Caleb Dunlap. “I can’t remember where I heard that. Maybe it was just inside of me. But it said, ‘Go to Seattle if you want to be part of change in what we call Indian Country.'”

It’s Friday, August 2, 2013, and Dunlap is sitting on the bumper of a red pickup truck parked on a cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean. He’s Ojibwe, of the Minnesota Chippewa, but today he’s in Quinault country, in the town of Taholah in Grays County, 150 miles west of Seattle. He moved to Seattle last year from Los Angeles, and he manages the programs at the Chief Seattle Club downtown. Dunlap dresses preppy. He wears stylish eyeglasses. He’s queer and out. All these same traits apply to his twin brother—they jokingly refer to themselves as the Nerdy Natives. They’re two of the thousands of people who have pitched tents on this cliff and in these forests for the first week of August. All these people are here to celebrate the endurance of the tribes the American government has tried to kill.

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